Capbreton Surf - 15/09

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We woke up early and checked the surf, at Les Bordaines in Seignosse, it was big and all over the place. We watched a couple of tow teams struggle with the inconsistent raging white water and decided it wasn't worth going in. Further down the coast in Capbreton it was working far better. There were hundreds of people in the water and onlookers taking in the spectacle. 

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On the far side, just before the bloc haus, the waves were peaking way over head high and huge open barrels were unloading into the shallow water. 

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I only had my 5'8 board with me that doesn't have much rocker, so making the drops were interesting. I ended up taking the smaller waves that had an easy exit and tried to slow myself down as much as possible. 

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The level of surfing was unbelievable. Some guys were getting ridiculously barrelled on some really long reeling rights. An epic day.

All goofy foot photos are of Duncan  😉